The Land of Snows

Yading Nature Reserve

The Yading Nature Reserve is found in western Sichuan’s Ganzi Tibet Autonomous Prefecture དཀར་མཛེས་བོད་རིགས་རང་སྐྱོང་ཁུལ་ in the traditional Tibetan region of Kham ཁམས་. Ganzi, known in Tibetan as Garnze དཀར་མཛེས་, is divided into 18 counties covering an area of 151,000 square kilometers (58,300 square miles). Yading is located in southern Daocheng county, which is known as Dapba འདབ་པ་ in Tibetan. The Yading Nature Reserve covers an area of 1344 square kilometers (520 square miles) and has an average elevation of well over 4000 meters.

 Inside the Yading Nature Reserve are the 3 holy mountains of Chenresig, rising to 6032 meters, Chana Dorje and Jampelyang, which both rise to 5958 meters. These 3 snow-capped peaks sit in a triangle formation with forested valleys, clear rivers, glacier-fed lakes and abundant wildlife between them. The Tibetan name for Yading is “Nyiden” ཉིན་རྟེན་, which means “facing the sun”.  The local Tibetan name for the area around the 3 holy mountains is “Rigsum Gonpo”. In Tibetan, the names of the mountains mean “Wisdom” (Jampelyang), “Power” (Chana Dorje) and “Compassion” (Chenresig). This region was designated as a nature reserve in the late 1990’s. 

The first westerner to see the area of Yading was the famous American botanist and explorer Dr. Joseph Rock. Dr. Rock explored the southeastern portion of the Tibetan Plateau (modern day western Sichuan and northwest Yunnan provinces) in detail for over 20 years beginning in the mid-1920’s. In 1928, he arrived in Yading and photographed the entire region. In the July 1931 issue of National Geographic, more than 60 pages are dedicated to the writings and photographs of Dr. Rocks travels in this area. This issue of National Geographic gave the world its first pictures of the incredible beauty of the Yading area. 

 Many regions of the Himalaya’s are referred to as “Shangri La”, the fictional paradise written about by James Hilton in his famous novel “Lost Horizon”, which was published in 1933. In 2001, the Tibetan county of Zhongdian (Gyelthang in Tibetan) in northwest Yunnan province was officially renamed “Shangri La” in an attempt to market more tourism to the area. Other regions in Nepal, India and Bhutan market themselves as being the “real Shangri La”. Most likely, James Hilton based his fictional place of Shangri La after the pictures that Joseph Rock published in the July 1931 issue of National Geographic. More recently, the small town of Riwa, located 35kms north of the entrance to the Yading Nature Reserve, also officially changed its name to “Shangri La”. Of all the places that call themselves “Shangri La”, the Yading Nature Reserve probably best represents what James Hilton was thinking about when he wrote “Lost Horizon”.

Though the outside world didn’t learn about Yading until 1931, local Tibetans have known about Yading for more than 800 years. Tibetans from the region have long considered the 3 peaks of Chenresig, Jampelyang and Chana Dorje to be the “abode of the gods”. Pilgrimage circuits go around the entire region as well as around each individual mountain. Local Tibetans try and complete a circuit around the highest mountain in the reserve, Chenresig, at least once a year.

 Due to its remoteness, the Yading Nature Reserve is still relatively unknown to foreign travelers. It is not listed in any of the major guidebooks for Tibet or China and getting accurate travel information for the area is difficult. Yading is becoming more popular among Chinese tourists, but even during the high season the tourists numbers are relatively low, especially compared to other popular areas on the Tibetan Plateau such as Lhasa, Jiuzhai Gou and Shangri La. There is talk about an airport being built near Yading, which I am sure will drastically change this quiet, tranquil area. 

Getting to Yading Nature Reserve

Yading Nature Reserve is not the easiest place to reach. With no airport and no railway, the only way to get there is by public bus or private vehicle. From Chengdu, there is a daily bus during the high season (June through early October) that goes to Yading. The distance is 865 kilometers (540 miles) and takes between 20 and 25 hours to complete. This is a long and difficult bus journey and is not recommended unless you are extremely short on time.

 The most popular way to reach Yading is to go from Chengdu to Kangding (Dartsendo in Tibetan) and then work your way to Yading from Kangding. From Chengdu, there are multiple buses per day to Kangding, known in Tibetan as Dartsendo. The bus costs 120 RMB and takes between 8 and 10 hours. Buses from Chengdu leave from the Xin Nan Men bus station or from in front of the Kangding Hotel in the Wu Hou Ci district. From Chengdu to Kangding is 330 kilometers.

It is best to stay 2 nights in Kangding, elevation 2600 meters, before setting out for the higher areas of Yading in order to properly acclimatize to reduce the risks of altitude sickness. From Kangding, there is 1 daly bus to Daocheng, elevation 3700 meters. The bus ticket costs 131 RMB and takes between 13 and 16 hours to drive. The distance between Kangding and Daocheng is 430 kilometers (270 miles). 

 A popular alternative is to go from Kangding to Litang and then continue on to Daocheng. There is 1 bus per day from Kangding to Litang. The bus costs 88 RMB and takes between 9 and 12 hours to drive. In the past there has been a bus from Litang to Daocheng, but at the time of research (August 2011) this bus service had stopped. It is still easy to get from Litang to Daocheng. The easiest way is to take a shared taxi from in front of the bus station in Litang. These shared taxi’s leave between 6am and 7am and cost between 60 RMB and 80 RMB per person to go to Daocheng. Keep in mind that these shared taxi’s only leave when they are full. Another option to get to Daocheng from Litang is to wait for the bus from Kangding to Daocheng to arrive in Litang. This bus normally arrives in the afternoon between 3pm and 5pm. From Litang to Daocheng normally takes 3 hours. The distance from Litang to Daocheng is 150 kilometers.  If you have any problems in Litang, talk to Medok, the Tibetan owner of the Potala Inn or talk to Tsering (Long Life), the Tibetan owner of the Peace Guesthouse. 

From Shangri La in northwest Yunnan province, there is also a daily bus to Daocheng leaving from the main long distance bus station. This bus ticket costs around 108 RMB and takes about 10 hours. The distance from Shangri La to Daocheng is 310 kilometers (193 miles). 

From Daocheng (elevation 3700 meters), there currently is no public bus to the Yading Nature Reserve, however there are plans for a public bus to begin in 2012 or 2013. The only way to get there now is by shared taxi. These shared taxi’s leave from in front of  the bus station on the main road in Daocheng. The cost is 50 RMB per person. These shared taxi’s leave when they are full. The drive is 3 hours and covers a distance of 110 kilometers. In Daocheng, the owners of Here Cafe and Guesthouse are very friendly and helpful. They know the Yading area well and can answer any questions regarding the region.  They also have a great guesthouse that serves good food.

Entrance tickets to Yading Nature Reserve are bought at the small town of Riwa, which recently changed its name to Shangri La. Riwa is located 75 kilometers south of Daocheng and 35 kilometers before Yading. The taxi drivers know that people need to purchase their entrance tickets in Riwa so you shouldn’t have to tell the driver. The entrance tickets cost 150 RMB per person. There is no reason to stay in Riwa, but there are several decent hotels and guesthouses to stay at if you need to stay there. Just south of Riwa, there is a checkpoint where your entrance tickets will be checked. This checkpoint marks the official entrance to the nature reserve. 

From Riwa, it is another 35 kilometers to the small village of Yading. Yading Village has a few simple guesthouses to stay at as well as a few Chinese and Tibetan restaurants. From Yading Village it is another 4 kilometers (2 1/2 miles) to Long Long Ba, which serves as the entrance to the Yading Nature Reserve. Your driver from Daocheng should drop you off in Long Long Ba, but ask him to make sure. Long Long Ba is a small village with just 1 or 2 accommodation choices. 

Getting around inside Yading Nature Reserve (not trekking)

From Long Long Ba to Chong Gu Monasery

The Yading Nature Reserve is full of stunning beauty and is an excellent place to do some trekking. If you don’t have time to trek or have no interest in trekking, Yading is still very much worth going to. The main route that travelers take in Yading is the ancient pilgrimage route around Mt. Chenresig. The village of Long Long Ba, the actual starting point of the trek, lies at an elevation of 3770 meters. If you don’t wish to hike, you can hire a horse at Long Long Ba to take you to Chonggu Monastery, known as Tsongu Gompa in Tibetan. The distance from Long Long Ba to Chonggu Monastery is around 3 kilometers (2 miles) and takes about an hour on horseback. To hire a horse and an animal tender is 30 RMB one way or 40 RMB round trip. 

Chong Gu Monastery sits at 4000 meters. This small monastery is nearly 800 years old and sits at the base of Mt. Chenresig’s north face. Mt. Chenresig, known in Chinese as Xian Nai Ri, is the highest mountain in the reserve rising to 6032 meters. The views of Chenresig from Chong Gu Monastery on a clear day are superb. Some older information on the internet states that Chong Gu Monastery has a guesthouse. However, after asking some of the monks at the monastery, they said the guesthouse no longer exists. The nearest accommodation is at the trailhead at Long Long Ba.

From Chong Gu Monastery to the Luorong Grasslands

From Chong Gu Monastery, the next main site is the Luorong Grasslands. About 100 meters past Chong Gu Monastery, there is a wood building on the left side where you can purchase tickets for an electric cart that can take you to Luorong. Tickets cost 50 RMB one way or 80 RMB roundtrip. The route between Chong Gu and Luorong is on a paved road that goes through a forested area following Mt. Chenresig’s east face before arriving at the wide open Luorong Grasslands. The distance between Chong Gu Monastery and Luorong Grasslands is about 6 kilometers (4 miles) and takes about 20 minutes in the electric cart. 

The Luorong Grasslands lie at an elevation of 4180 meters and offer an amazing view of all 3 holy mountains. On the right side is Mt. Chenresig’s southeastern face. On the left side is Mt. Chana Dorje’s (known as Xia Nuo Duo Ji in Chinese) northeastern face while Mt. Jampelyang’s (Yang Mai Yong in Chinese) north face  dominates the front view from the grasslands. Luorong is one of the most scenic spots in Yading.

In addition to the paved road that leads to Luorong, there are also some wooden walkways and bridges that are built on the grasslands to the right of the road. Walking  directly on the grasslands is not allowed. Towards the middle of the Luorong Grasslands there are some permanent huts where local Tibetan herders live during the late spring and summer months. Older information on the internet suggests that you can either camp at Luorong or stay in one of the nomads huts, however the leader of the Luorong Grasslands informed me that neither was possible any longer. Camping at Luorong is strictly forbidden and the local Tibetans are not allowed to host guests. 

From Luorong Grasslands to Milk Lake and 5 Color Lake

Nearly all Chinese tourists will take the electric cart to Luorong. Very few, if any, will hike in. After Luorong, the pilgrimage path around Mt. Chenresig gets more difficult and rough. The Tibetan nomads who live at Luorong rent horses and an animal tender to take people to Milk Lake, the next main attraction along the pilgrimage route of Mt. Chenresig. The distance from Luorong to Milk Lake, known as Niu Nai Hai in Chinese and O Tso in Tibetan, is about 5 kilometers (3 miles) and takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours on horseback each way. Milk Lake sits at an elevation of 4480 meters.  The cost of renting a horse from Luorong to Milk Lake is around 200 RMB to 300 RMB per person for the roundtrip. 

Milk Lake is a stunning glacier fed lake on the south end of Mt. Chenresig. Above Milk Lake is another lake named 5 Color Lake, known as Wu Se Hai in Chinese and Tso Nga Tso in Tibetan. This lake sits at 4530 meters and takes about 20 minutes to reach from Milk Lake. The hired horses usually do not do the climb up to 5 Color Lake so you will probably have to hike this short portion. Sitting right at the base of the south face of Chenresig, 5 Color Lake is the most beautiful lake around the pilgrimage circuit and should be visited. 

The local Tibetans told me that camping at Milk Lake and 5 Color Lake is not allowed. The closest place to camp would be below the high pass that is about 215 vertical meters above Milk Lake. 

 Milk Lake is as far as you can go without having to trek. Past Milk Lake there are no more horses to be rented. Those not trekking would have to turn around and take their horse back to Luorong Grasslands and then take the electric cart back to Chong Gu Monastery before going back to the trailhead at Long Long Ba. 

Trekking Around Mt. Chenresig

The most popular pilgrimage circuit (kora) in Yading is around the highest mountain, Chenresig. It is possible to do this trek in one long 12 to 14 hour day but, taking 2 days to complete the kora is a better option as it gives you more time to really enjoy the area. 

Trekkers will need to arrive at Yading with tents, sleeping bags, food and water. Kangding is the best place in the region to purchase trekking gear and food. The town of Daocheng has some small grocery stores, but selections are limited. There are rivers along most of the trek so bringing a water purifier or boiling water is an option. Since nearly all of this trek is above 4000 meters, cold weather clothing is required, even in the summer. 

The best time to do this trek is from late-April to early June and then from early September to mid-October. The summer months from early June to early September are possible, but rain and clouds severely limit visibility. It is rare to see the summits of the 3 mountains during those months. The winter months from early November through early April bring extreme cold temperatures and heavy snow, so trekking then is not recommended.

 A guide is not required for the 2 day trek around Chenresig, though if you want one, a guide can be found at the trailhead at Long Long Ba. They charge around 200 RMB per day. If you plan on doing a longer hike in the region, such as around all 3 mountains or to Lugu Lake, it is highly recommended that you take a guide with you.  This trek is not recommended for those who have had problems with elevation in the past. The highest point along the trek is 4700 meters and there are no medical facilities in the area.

Stage 1: Long Long Ba to Chong Gu Monastery                                                                                            Elevation Gain: +230 meters                                                                                                      Distance: 3 to 3 1/2 kilometers (2 miles)                                                                                        Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Long Long Ba is the start of the trail around Mt. Chenresig. The elevation here is 3770 meters. The entrance is easy to find as there are dozens of Tibetans offering to rent their horses to those who want to ride to Chong Gu Monastery. The path to Chong Gu Monastery is dirt, but is wide and easy to navigate. It goes through a forested area with a river flowing on the right hand side. There are several high stacks of carved prayer stones along the way. 

 From Long Long Ba to Chong Gu Monastery takes between 45 minutes and 1 hour to hike. The distance is around 3 to 3 1/2 kilometers (2 miles). The elevation gain is around 230 meters.

Stage 2: Chong Gu Monastery to Luorong Grasslands                                                                      Elevation Gain: +180 meters                                                                                                  Distance: 6 kilometers (3.75 miles)                                                                                                Time: 1 1/2 to 2 hours

Chong Gu Monastery lies along the north face of Mt. Chenresig at an elevation of 4000 meters. A clear, glacier-fed river flows through an evergreen forest making this spot one of the most scenic along the trek. The views of Chenresig’s north face from here are spectacular.

The monastery lies off of the main path on the right side. The trail to the monastery is easy to find. The monastery lies less than 5 minutes off of the main path. On the left side, there are more than a dozen toilets to use. There is also a nice sheltered area with lots of benches to rest on. Using a water purifier (or boiling), you can refill your water bottles from the river that flows below the monastery.

The monastery is quite small and has just a handful of monks. When I was there, no entrance fee was charged, though some places on the internet say that a 10 RMB ticket is required. There usedto be a guesthouse next to the monastery, but now there are no accommodations or restaurant. Camping at Chong Gu Monastery is not permitted. 

From Chong Gu Monastery to Luorong Monastery the path is a paved road. This is the only section of the trek that goes along a paved road. This is not a public road, but a private road where electric carts take Chinese tourists between the two places. Chinese tourists rarely hike and prefer to take the electric cart, which takes about 20 minutes. The road goes through a beautiful forested region following the eastern face of Mt. Chenresig. 

The road gains a total elevation of 180 meters before arriving at Luorong. The distance is about 6 kilometers (3.75 miles) and takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours to complete. 

Stage 3: Luorong Grasslands to Milk Lake                                                                                                     Elevation Gain: +300 meters                                                                                                    Distance: 4 1/2 to 5 kilometers (3 miles)                                                                                      Time: 2 1/2 to 3 hours

The Luorong Grasslands, elevation 4180 meters, offer an amazing view of all 3 mountains. Mt. Chana Dorje, rising to 5958 meters, will be on your left side, the southeast face of Chenresig will be on your right side and Mt. Jampelyang’s north face, also 5958 meters, will be in front of you. Dr. Joseph Rock published a fantastic photo of Mt. Jampelyang in the July 1931 issue of National Geographic. He took the photo from the Luorong Grasslands. The glaciers of Mt. Jampelyang are especially beautiful. 

As you get closer to Luorong, a wooden walkway goes from the road to the grasslands off on the right side. Both the road and the wooden walkway lead to the same place. Walking directly on the grasslands is not allowed. 

The Luorong Grasslands are quite large and are a brilliant green color during the mid-summer. There are a high bundle of Tibetan prayer flags in the middle of the grasslands. There are wood benches around these prayer flags where you can take a rest. On the far end of the grasslands are 8 to 10 small huts where local Tibetans live during the spring and summer months. These Tibetans rent horses to Chinese tourists who wish to go to Milk Lake. Camping at the Luorong Grasslands is not permitted and the Tibetans are not allowed to host guests.

From Luorong, you will follow the wooden walkways toward the group of huts occupied by local Tibetans. Past these huts, you will go towards the left where the path returns to dirt. You will follow this dirt path along the rest of the grasslands that lie in front of Mt. Jampelyang. Leaving the grasslands, the path gently turns around the southeast part of Mt. Chenresig. 

Keep in mind that you are following the route around Mt. Chenresig and not Mt. Jampelyang. Always keep Chenresig on your right hand side. The path goes up a steep pass that is covered in Tibetan prayer flags. As you reach the top of the pass, the north face of Mt. Jampelyang goes out of view. The path is well marked and you will probably see Chinese tourists on horseback. If you ever have any questions, ask any of the friendly Tibetans you see along the way. Local Tibetans say that camping along the lake shore is not allowed and that you need to descend down below the First Col to camp.

After the pass, there is a slight descent and Milk Lake can be seen in the distance. The path remains well marked. The route from Luorong Grasslands to Milk Lake gains about 300 meters in elevation and covers a distance of 4 1/2 to 5 kilometers (3 miles). It takes between 2 1/2 to 3 hours to trek this stage.

Stage 4: Milk Lake to the First Col (Pass)                                                                                            Elevation Gain: +220 to +250 meters                                                                                      Distance: 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile)                                                                                                Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Milk Lake, elevation 4480 meters, is a stunning glacier-fed lake that sits at between Mt. Chenresig and Mt. Jampelyang. This lake is considered holy to the Tibetan people so swimming in the lake is not allowed. Milk Lake, known as Niu Nai Hai in Chinese and O Tso in Tibetan, is very picturesque. The lake is crystal clear and the reflection of Mt. Jampelyang mirrors off the lakes surface. 

A short 20 minute hike above Milk Lake is 5 Color Lake, which sits at 4530 meters in elevation. This lake sits right at the base of the south face of Mt. Chenresig. The trail leading up to 5 Color Lake is well defined and easy to find. There are piles of prayer stones around the lake that are draped in prayer flags. Five Color Lake is the most beautiful of all the lakes around Chenresig. 

From Milk Lake, the trail continues north of the lake (right side) and leads up to a col (pass) between 2 mountains. From the shores of Milk Lake, you can clearly see the route that the path follows. From the lake the ascent looks easy, but the top of the col gains about 220 meters.  By this point of the trek, most people are feeling quite tired which makes climbing this portion difficult. The trail is a little rocky in spots, but overall is not bad.

 

 At the top of the pass there are piles of prayer stones and a large amount of prayer flags. The top offers an amazing view of the southwest face of Mt. Chenresig as well as a great view of Mt. Jampelyang. The elevation of the pass is 4700 meters, roughly 220 to 250 meters above Milk Lake. The distance from Milk Lake to the top of the col is 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile) and takes 45 minutes to an hour to climb. 

 

 Stage 5: First Col to the First Hut                                                                                                                   Elevation Loss: -220 meters                                                                                                     Distance: 2 1/2 kilometers (1 1/2 miles)                                                                                      Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

From the top of the pass where the prayer flags are, continue going straight for a short distance. Around 150 or 200 meters past the prayer flags, you will reach a fork in the path. Near this fork, there is a prayer wheel on a wooden pole. At the fork in the road, it is IMPORTANT to turn right (north) and keep Chenresig on your right side. If you continue going straight, you will go off of the the correct path and could become lost. From the turn, you will hike towards the north. Another small group of prayer flags will appear after about 400 meters. These prayer flags stand on top of another pass. From this pass you can see the valley below.

The descent from the First Col is quite easy. The trail is rocky in places, but overall is not difficult. After a short while, you will see another alpine lake on your left side. The path continues below Mt. Chenresig on the right side of the lake. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, you will come to an abandoned rock hut, nicknamed the “First Hut”. This First Hut is on a flat grassland area that is perfect for setting up camp for the night. I recommend camping here for the night as after the First Hut the trail begins to ascend again to another high pass.There is a nearby stream where you can refill your water supply.

From the top of the First Col to the First Hut is about 2 kilometers (1 1/4 miles). The elevation of the grassland area where the First Hut is located is 4480 meters.

Stage 6: First Hut to Several Huts                                                                                                          Elevation Loss: -150 meters                                                                                                    Distance: 2 1/4 kilometers (1 1/2 miles)                                                                                        Time: 40 minutes to 1 hour

From the first stone hut, you will continue descending the well marked path that lies about 30 meters to the right of the hut.  Between the first stone hut and the group of stone huts, the trail gently ascends and descends, but overall drops in elevation around 150 meters. This stage of the trail is quite easy and goes by quickly. 

Before reaching the group of stone huts, there is a good-sized river that flows across the train (very easy to cross without getting wet) where you can replenish your water supply. There is little or no water during Stages 7 and 8, so make sure you leave here with plenty of water. As a rule of thumb, it is wise to restock your water supply every time you come across a clean river. I personally use a SteriPEN and find that it works excellent with the rivers on the Tibetan Plateau.  From this river, which is marked in prayer flags and piles of stones, it is just a short hike to the group of stone huts.

The “several huts” I am referring to is a group of 6 or 7 abandoned stone huts that are similar to the single hut mentioned in Stage 5. They are not on a grassland area, but are on a narrow ledge along the side of the mountain. For those hiking to the Kasi Hell Gulley (having a guide for that trek is highly recommended), there is an entrance to that trail from the group of stone huts. 

The elevation of the group of stone huts is approximately 4340 meters. It takes between 40 minutes and 1 hour to reach the huts from the single hut mentioned in Stage 5. 

Stage 7: Several Huts to Second Col (Pass)                                                                                        Elevation Gain: +320 to +350 meters                                                                                  Distance: 3 kilometers (2 miles)                                                                                                    Time: 2 to 2 1/2 hours

From the group of several huts, the climb up to the Second Col (Pass) is quite difficult and demanding. It is the most difficult stage of the trek in my opinion. The trail remains well defined and easy to see, but almost immediately begins to ascend from the group of huts. About 3/4 of a kilometer past the huts, the trail turns to the right. There is only 1 trail here so you can’t miss this turn. For those unfamiliar with the trail, you might think that this incline is the Second Col (Pass). It isn’t! Once you reach the turn in the trail, you will see that the Second Col is still far in the distance (over 2 kilometers away) and that you are still nearly 250 meters below the col. 

The trail through this section is quite rocky, but isn’t difficult to navigate. This portion of the trail goes along Mt. Chenresig’s northwest face. Thousands of Tibetan prayer flags mark the top of the Second Col. The wind is normally quite strong and cold here. The top of the Second Col is around 4665 meters. It takes between 2 and 2 1/2 hours to trek the 3 kilometers (2 miles) from the group of huts to the Second Col.

Stage 8: Second Col to Prayer Flags along Chenresig’s North Face                                               Elevation Loss: -250 meters to -275 meters                                                                            Distance: 1 3/4 kilometers (1 mile)                                                                                               Time: 45 minutes to 1 hour

After crossing the Second Col at 4665 meters, it is all downhill the rest of the way. The trail is clearly visible and follows along Mt. Chenresig’s impressive north face. After hiking for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, you will come across a grassland area that is filled with Tibetan prayer flags. There are some more stone huts here and probably some grazing yaks. This point offers one of the best views of Mt. Chenresig as you are now directly below the north face of the mountain.

The grasslands where these prayer flags are sit at an elevation of 4400 meters. The distance from the Second Col to these prayer flags is about 1 3/4 kilometers (1 mile).

Stage 9: Prayer Flags along Chenresig’s North Face to Pearl Lake                                                  Elevation Loss: -250 meters to -275 meters                                                                          Distance: 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile)                                                                                              Time: 30 minutes to 45 minutes

From the prayer flags, the trail continues along the north face of Mt. Chenresig. The trail then goes through a forest of huge evergreen trees. After 30 to 45 minutes, you will reach Pearl Lake, known as Zhen Zhu Hai in Chinese. From the lakeshore, there is a great view of the north side of Mt. Chenresig. The elevation of Pearl Lake is 4140 meters. The distance from the prayer flags to Pearl Lake is 1 1/2 kilometers (1 mile). 

Stage 10: Pearl Lake to Long Long Ba                                                                                                  Elevation Loss: -370 meters                                                                                                    Distance: 3 3/4 kilometers (2 1/3 miles)                                                                                      Time: 1 hour to 1 1/4 hours 

 

The final stage of the trek takes you from Pearl Lake, elevation 4140 meters, to Chong Gu Monastery and then back to the park entrance at Long Long Ba. From Pearl Lake, the path becomes a wooden bridge that goes along Pearl Lake. After the lake, the path becomes wooden steps and wooden logs all the way to Chong Gu Monastery. After the monastery, the path is a wide, dirt road where Chinese tourists will be on horseback. The distance is about 3 3/4 kilometers (2 1/3 miles) and takes between 1 hour and 1 1/4 hours to complete.  The elevation at Long Long Ba is 3770 meters.

The elevations I have listed are from using an altimeter and from using the latest edition of Google Earth. Distances were also determined from using Google Earth. These elevations and distances could be slightly off, but it is unlikely. The entire pilgrimage route around Mt. Chenresig is between 30 and 32 kilometers (18 1/2 to 20 miles). You will not get lost along this trek as long as you remember that you are circling Mt. Chenresig. Always keep Chenresig on your right side.

 If you have any questions about this excellent trek, feel free to email me at [email protected] 

 Losang

བློ་བཟང་

 

 

Frequently Asked Questions About Travel in Tibet

I get emails everyday from across the globe asking for travel advice on Tibet. I do my best to answer as many of those questions as I can. On my website, I have tried to make it as clear as possible how to arrange travel to Tibet. If you have never been to Tibet before, it can be quite confusing trying to understand travel permits, group visa's and determining if the area you are going to requires a guide or not. In this post, I will answer some of the most frequently asked questions I receive regarding travel in Tibet. 

1. Where is Tibet?

To the Tibetan people and to foreigners familiar with Tibet and Tibetan Buddhism, Tibet encompasses the entire Tibetan Plateau where the Tibetan people are native to. This includes all counties of the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), 95% of the land area of Qinghai province, southwest Gansu, northern Sichuan, western Sichuan and far northwest Yunnan. Traditionally Tibet was divided into specific regions such as U, Tsang, Kham, Amdo, Ngari, Kongpo and Gyarong. In all of my writings, I refer to all of the Tibetan Plateau as being "Tibet" as that is what the majority of Tibetan people do as well.

2. Is there a difference between Tibet and the Tibet Autonomous Region?

Yes, there is a major difference in these two terms. The term "Tibet" refers to the entire Tibetan Plateau where the Tibetan people are native to. This includes all of the different regions listed above in #1. The Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) refers to only 50% of the land mass of the Tibetan Plateau. Parts of Tibet are spread across 5 provinces and regions of southwestern China. Don't let the lines of a Chinese map confuse you. Tibet is a much, much larger area than just the TAR. Roughly 60% of the Tibetan people live outside of the TAR in other regions of Tibet. The terms "Tibet" and "Tibet Autonomous Region" mean two very different things.

 

3. Which areas of Tibet require an organized tour?

All areas of the Tibet Autonomous Region require all foreign travelers to be part of an organized tour that includes travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver (no private vehicle needed if you are just staying in Lhasa). The Tibetan prefectures found in Qinghai, northern Sichuan, western Sichuan, southwest Gansu and northwest Yunnan are (usually) open and do not require travel permits or a tour guide.

4. How can foreigners go to the TAR without an organized tour and tour guide?

You can't. Unless you are a student at the Tibet University or have a work permit and resident visa for the TAR, you cannot go to the TAR without being on an organized tour. There are NO exceptions! Foreign travelers MUST be part of an organized tour that includes permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver.

5. Do I really need to have a tour guide if I am only going to Lhasa?

Yes, absolutely. Before the events of March 2008, foreigners did not need a tour guide if they were in Lhasa or traveled along the route connecting Lhasa to Mt. Everest Base Camp and the Nepal border. Since March 2008, major changes have happened regarding travel regulations for foreigners in the TAR. Now, everyone MUST have a tour guide each day, even when in Lhasa.

6. Is arranging travel to the TAR difficult?

No, once you separate the facts from the fiction regarding travel to the TAR, arranging travel is actually very easy. The travel agency that you choose actually does almost all of the work arranging your tour. All you do is decide the route you want to take and exchange some emails with the travel agency you use. Read through the following link for detailed information on how to arrange travel to the TAR:

How to arrange travel to the TAR

7. I have heard of people taking public buses within the TAR recently. How can I do that also in order to keep the cost of travel low?

This is simply not true. Foreigners MUST use a private vehicle with a driver. The only exception is within Lhasa where foreigners can use taxi's and city buses. Before March 2008, foreigners used to be able to take public buses to Ganden Monastery, Samye Monastery and to a few other places outside of Lhasa. Now this is impossible. The bus station in Lhasa will not sell tickets to foreigners and bus drivers will not allow foreigners onto buses that go outside of Lhasa.

8. I don't like the travel regulations for the TAR and plan to sneak in illegally. Do you think I will be caught?

Your chances of making it to Lhasa illegally without being caught are very, very slim. I have heard only a handful of confirmed reports of foreigners making it to Lhasa without any problems. Without showing your valid Tibet Travel Permit, you will not be allowed to board a flight or train to Lhasa. Sneaking in overland from places like Dege, Batang, Shangri La or  Nangchen will be extremely difficult as well. First, there is normally a lot of police along these towns specifically looking for foreigners trying to enter the TAR illegally. Second, in order to go from the above towns to Lhasa, you will have to pass through Chamdo prefecture in the far eastern region of the TAR. Chamdo prefecture has been completely off-limits to foreign travelers since March 2010. Police will see you, detain you (some people have reported to me being detained for up to 3 days), fined and then sent back to Chengdu. 

If you do happen to miraculously make it to Lhasa (which is HIGHLY unlikely), you will have problems finding a hotel that will take you without having a valid travel permit. A lot of passport holders of other east Asian countries think they have an advantage over other travelers because they look Chinese. However, I have seen several Japanese, Korean and Chinese-Americans sitting at the police station in Lhasa this year because they entered the TAR illegally. 

There are numerous checkpoints throughout the TAR. At many of the checkpoints, everyone will have to register, even Chinese travelers. Your chances of succeeding by sneaking in to the TAR are so very, very slim. I do not recommend doing it.

9. Can I stay in the TAR after my tour is finished?

No, your travel permit is only valid for the duration of your tour. Once your tour is completed, you have to leave. Normally, the travel agency that you use will either book your flight/train ticket departing Lhasa or will ask for you to show your outgoing ticket. If you decide to lie and stay in the TAR after your tour is over, you could cause the agency you used to get in huge trouble. They could even lose their business license forcing everyone out of work. Read the following link for more details:

Traveling Illegally in Tibet

10. The last few years the TAR as well as Tibetan prefectures in Qinghai, Gansu and Sichuan have been closed during the month of March. Will these regions always be closed in March?

March has several sensitive anniversaries so the government closes most of the Tibetan Plateau from late February until very early April. During that time, it is impossible to get travel permits for the TAR. If everything remains stable, travel permits the past few years begin being issued again sometime around April 1st.

The Tibetan regions of Amdo and Kham found in Qinghai, Sichuan and Gansu also can close during this time. The bus station in Chengdu usually does not sell tickets to the Tibetan regions found in Sichuan during the month of March. This year, there were many police checkpoints along the way west to Kangding. Foreigners were made to get off of the bus and return to Chengdu. The Tibetan regios fo Amdo and Kham are often times closed longer than the TAR. In 2011, the TAR reopened in early April, but most of the Tibetan regions of Sichuan didn't reopen until May 1st. 

11. When does the Friendship Highway, which links Lhasa with Kathmandu, close in the winter due to snow?

Though the Friendship Highway goes over several 5000m passes in the Himalaya's, the road only very rarely closes due to snow. Winters are generally extremely dry in this region. Though temperatures are cold, little snowfall accumulates. In the rare event that the road does close, it is usually only for a day or two.

12. Do other roads in Tibet close during the winter time due to snow?

Absolutely....Some roads in the Kham regions of the TAR and western Sichuan can get heavy snow in the winter closing roads for many days at a time. In general though, most of the areas that foreign travelers go to won't have any problems with closed roads due to snow. The only real exception is the road up to Nam Tso. This road is often closed for weeks at a time during the winter.

13. I know that parts of Tibet/Tibetan regions are found in 5 Chinese provinces, but how is Tibet divided up?

The Tibetan people are native to all regions of the Tibetan Plateau and not just the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). Tibet is divided into 1 Autonomous Region, 10 Autonomous Prefectures and 2 Autonomous Counties. 

The TAR is divided into 6 prefectures (Ngari/Ali, Nagchu/Naqu, Shigatse/Rikaze, Lhoka/Shannan, Kongpo/Linzhi and Chamdo/Changdu) and 1 Prefecture Level City (Lhasa).

Qinghai province is divided into 6 autonomous prefectures (Yulshul/Yushu, Golog/Guoluo, Tsonub/Haixi, Tsolho/Hainan, Tsojang/Haibei and Malho/Huangnan) and one provincial level city (Xining). The prefecture of Tsoshar/Haidong is not Tibetan Autonomous, but does have nearly 150,000 Tibetans living within it. The current 14th Dalai Lama as well as the famous 10th Panchen Lama are from Tsoshar Prefecture. Altogether, 95% of the land mass of Qinghai is designated as "Tibetan Autonomous".

Sichuan province has 2 autonomous prefectures (Kardze/Ganzi and Ngawa/Aba) and 1 autonomous county (Muli). Nearly half of the land mass of Sichuan is designated as "Tibetan Autonomous".

Southwest Gansu province has 1 autonomous prefecture (Kanlho/Gannan) and 1 autonomous county (Tianzhu).

Northwest Yunnan has one very small autonomous prefecture (Dechen/Diqing).

Use the map below for a reference to where each specific Tibetan area is:

14. Where exactly are the Kham and Amdo regions of Tibet?

Kham and Amdo cover 50% of the landmass of the Tibetan Plateau and have nearly 60% of the total Tibetan population. The Kham Tibetans live in a large region of the Tibetan Plateau. Kham speaking Tibetans are found in Chamdo, Nagchu and parts of Kongpo* prefectures in the TAR (*Kongpo is not all Kham speaking, but about 1/3 are), Yushu prefecture in Qinghai, Kardze** prefecture in western Sichaun and in Dechen prefecture in NW Yunnan (**not all Tibetans in Kardze prefecture are Kham speaking, though the majority are). There are around 2.1 million Kham speaking Tibetans out a total Tibetan population within China of around 5.8 million.

Amdo speaking Tibetans are found in in Tsonub, Tsoshar, Tsojang, Tsolho, Golog and Malho prefectures in Qinghai, Kanlho prefecture in Gansu and Ngawa prefecture in Sichuan. Altogether, there are around 1.7 million Amdo speaking Tibetans.

15. Where is the best place to start for exploring the Kham and Amdo regions?

For the open parts of the Kham region (the TAR regions of Kham require foreigners to have a complete organized tour that includes travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver), the best place to start is Chengdu or Kangding. Kangding is located in Kham and is the gateway to the Kham Tibetan world. From both Chengdu and Kangding, buses can be taken to nearly every open Kham Tibetan county. 

For the Amdo regions, Xining and Chengdu are the best places to start. From Xining, there are daily buses to every Amdo county in Qinghai and to several Amdo counties in Gansu province. From Chengdu, there are daily buses to every Amdo town in northern Sichuan.

16. When traveling to the TAR, do I need to be on a group tour?

No, there is no need to travel in a group when going to the TAR. Solo travelers can go to the TAR, though you still need to be part of an organized tour that includes travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver. Many people prefer to travel with a small group of 2 or 3 in order to share the cost of the required guide and private vehicle.

17. Do I need a sleeping bag in Tibet?

Unless you plan on trekking and camping, there is no need to bring a sleeping bag or tent to Tibet. Every guesthouse and hotel will offer clean sheets and plenty of thick blankets. 

18. What kind of vehicles are used in the TAR?

Generally, the most common vehicle used in the TAR is the Toyota Land Cruiser. These have been used since Tibet opened to foreign tourists in the early 1980's. However, the past 5 years many of the roads in the TAR have improved dramatically so that full-sized vans are also commonly used. Most of the roads in the Yarlung Valley as well as the Friendship Highway are now entirely paved. Even the road to Mt. Kailash is now paved over 75% of the way. While Toyota Land Cruisers are still the best option to use if going to Everest Base Camp (the 100km cut-off road from Baber to EBC and the 70kms from EBC to Old Tingri are still dirt roads) or through far western Tibet, many areas can now be accessed using a van.

19. Is it possible to cycle in the TAR?

Yes, it is possible to cycle in the TAR, however you must still have travel permits a tour guide and a "support vehicle" that will follow you along your route. There are no exceptions to this. The guide will ride with the driver in the vehicle. The vehicle normally will stay a few kilometers in front of you as you cycle along your route. Since foreigners must have a guide and suport vehicle, cycling in the TAR is quite expensive. More and more people are choosing to cycle in the open Tibetan areas of Kham and Amdo (the route from Kangding to Shangri La is becoming quite popular) in orde to avoid having to pay the high costs of cycling in the TAR. 

20. Which guidebook is best for using in Tibet?

On my desk I have every current guidebook on Tibet. In my opinion, Lonely Planet publishes the best guidebooks in the world, not just for Tibet, but in general. I am sure some people disagree with me, but this is just my opinion. Lonely Planet does publish a Tibet guidebook, but it really only covers the TAR and a little bit of the Kham region found in western Sichuan. In addition to the LP Tibet guidebook, I recommend the LP China guidebook. The Qinghai, Gansu, Sichuan and Yunnan chapters give good coverage of the Amdo and Kham regions of Tibet. There is no need to purchase the entire LP China guidebook. You can now go to their website and buy the individual chapters that you need for your journey. 

In addition to the LP guidebooks mentioned above, I also recommend Gyurme Dorje's 4th Edition Footprint Tibet Handbook. This book can be a bit overwhelming if you are completely new to Tibet, but is actually an excellent resource. It covers every single county of Tibet in all regions. For trekking in Tibet, you MUST get a copy of Gary McCue's 2010 Trekking in Tibet. It is well written, easy to understand and covers all of the major treks in Tibet, including many in Amdo and Kham.

21. When is the best time to go to Tibet?

Tibet can be visited anytime of year, though in my opinion some times are better than others. The area between Lhasa and Everest Base Camp has become very popular among Chinese tourists during the summer time (June through early October). Lhasa can be quite crowded with tourists during this time. Getting train tickets to Lhasa are difficult, hotels are often full and tour prices are never discounted. The views of the Himalaya's are also not the best during the summer months. For this reason, I stay away from Lhasa and the surrounding area during the summer time. 

April and May and mid-October through mid February are my favorite times to go to the TAR. The tourist crowds are small, the weather is generally clear for viewing the Himalaya's, train tickets are much easier to get and tour prices are lower than in the summer. During the winter time (December-February) there are thousands of Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims in Lhasa celebrating Losar (Tibetan New Year). This is a great time to be in Lhasa.

Kham and Amdo can also be visited all year round, though my favorite time of year for these regions is also the spring and fall. Even during the summer time relatively few travelers are found in Kham and Amdo, though this region is generally cloudy during that season meaning that the views of the mountains are not that good. Winter in Amdo and certain regions of Kham can be extremely cold during the winter with temperatures often reaching -20C to -25C. For this reason, some regions of Amdo and Kham should be avoided during the coldest parts of winter.

Read through the following link for information on the best time to visit Tibet:

Best time to visit Tibet

22. Which areas of Tibet do you recommend going to?

This is one of the most difficult questions I receive and I receive it often! Over the past 10 years, I have been able to travel extensively across Tibet and I love all areas. Read through the following link of mine for recommendations on which areas of Tibet to go to:

Tibet: Which area to go to?

23. What are the temperatures like in Tibet?

Tibet, including the regions of Kham and Amdo, is a huge area covering over 1/4 of the land mass of China. It is larger than most countries. Because of its size, Tibet has varying climates and temperatures. Some areas of Tibet indeed are extremely cold, while others can actually be quite mild during the summer. Winter time is generally quite cold across Tibet with some regions, parts of Amdo in particular, being deathly cold.

In general, most travelers to Tibet go between April and October. During this time, most of Tibet is relatively mild. Most people are surprised with how warm (and even hot) Lhasa and the Yarlung Valley can get during the summer time. In early September 2010 I took the train to Lhasa and in my compartment there were 3 Chinese tourists going to Lhasa for the first time. They were all convinced that Lhasa was going to be -10C with heavy snow!! They were all wearing clothes as if they were going to summit Everest! You can only imagine the look on their faces when we arrived in Lhasa and it was +25C with lots of sunshine!! Tibet is a cold place, especially in the winter, but it is still probably warmer than you think. The region in and around Lhasa is one of the mildest regions in all of Tibet.

Here are the average temperatures throughout the year for selected towns across the Tibetan Plateau. These numbers are based on the weather averages of the past 15 years.

TIBET AUTONOMOUS REGION

Lhasa:

January High: 8.3C / 47F            Jan Low: -5.5C / 22F

April High: 15.5C / 60F               April Low: 4.4C / 40F

July High: 22.8C / 73F               July Low: 13.3C / 56F

October High: 17.2C / 63F          Oct Low: 4.4C / 40F

Shigatse:

January High: 7.2C / 45F            Jan Low: -9.4C / 15F

April High: 15C / 59F                  April Low: 1.7C / 35F

July High: 21.1 C / 70F               July Low: 10.6C / 51F

October High: 15.5C / 60F          Oct Low: 0C / 32F

Ali (nearest large town to Mt. Kailash):

January High: -5C / 23F              Jan Low: -18.3C / -1F

April High: 7.2C / 45F                 April Low: -6.1C / 21F

July High: 20.6C / 69F                July Low: 8.9C / 48F

October High: 6.7C / 44F            Oct Low: -6.1C / 21F

Old Tingri (nearest large town to Mt. Everest Base Camp):

January High: 3.9C / 39F             Jan Low: -13.3C / 8F

April High: 10.6C / 51F                April Low: -4.4C / 24F

July High: 18.3C /65F                  July Low: 8.3C / 47F

October High: 11.7C / 53F           Oct Low: -3.9C / 25F

Chamdo (far eastern TAR):

January High: 8.9C / 48F             Jan Low: -7.8C / 18F

April High: 15C / 59F                   April Low: 2.2C / 36F

July High: 23.3C / 74F                 July Low: 12.2C / 54F

October High: 16.1C / 61F           Oct Low: 2.8C / 37F

Nagchu (far northern TAR):

January High: -1.7C / 29F            Jan Low: -16.1C / 3F

April High: 6.1C / 43F                  April Low: -6.1C / 21F

July High: 15.6C / 60F                 July Low: 6.1C / 43F

October High: 6.7C / 44F             Oct Low: -4.4C / 24F

QINGHAI PROVINCE

Xining:

January High: 0C / 32F               Jan Low: -14.4C / 6F

April High: 15C / 59F                  April Low: 2.2C / 36F

July High: 23.9C / 75F               July Low: 12.8C / 55F

October High: 12.8C / 55F          Oct Low: 1.7C / 35F

Jyekundo (far southern Qinghai):

January High: 2.8C / 37F            Jan Low: -11.7C / 11F

April High: 11.7C / 53F               April Low: -0.6C / 31F

July High: 20.6C / 69F               July Low: 9.4C / 49F

October High: 10.6C / 51F          Oct Low: -0.6C / 31F

Gangtsa (north shore of Qinghai Lake):

January High: -5C / 23F              Jan Low: -17.2C / 1F

April High: 7.8C / 46F                 April Low: -3.3C / 26F

July High: 16.1C / 61F                July Low: 7.8C / 46F

October High: 6.7C / 44F            Oct Low: -4C / 25F

Sog (far eastern Qinghai):

January High: -1.1C / 30F           Jan Low: -20C / -4F

April High: 8.3C / 47F                 April Low:-4C / 25F

July High: 16.1C / 61F               July Low: 6.7C / 44F

October High: 7.2C / 45F            Oct Low: -4.4C / 24F

Maduo (near west face of Mt. Amnye Machen):

January High: -6.1C / 21F           Jan Low: -20C / -4F

April High: 4C / 39F                    April Low: -7.2C / 19F

July High: 13.3C / 56F                July Low: 4.4C / 40F

October High: 2.8C / 37F            Oct Low: -6.1C / 21F

Wudaoliang (far southwestern Qinghai):

January High: -8.3C / 17F             Jan Low: -20C / -4F

April High: 2.2C / 36F                   April Low: -9.4C / 15F

July High: 11.1C / 52F                 July Low: 2.8C / 37F

October High: 0C / 32F                Oct High: -9C / 16F

SICHUAN PROVINCE

Kangding:

January High: 2.2C / 36F             Jan Low: -5C / 23F

April High: 13.3C / 56F                April Low: 3.3C / 38F

July High: 20C / 68F                   July Low: 13.3C / 56F

October High: 11.7C / 53F           Oct Low: 5C / 41F

Lithang:

January High: 4.4C / 40F             Jan Low: -10C / 14F

April High: 10C / 50F                   April Low: -1.1C / 30F

July High: 17.2C / 63F                July Low: 8.3C / 47F

October High: 11.1C / 52F           Oct Low: 0.6C / 33F

Dege:

January High: 7.2C / 45F             Jan Low: -7.2C / 19F

April High: 14.4C / 58F                April Low: 2.2C / 36F

July High: 22.8C / 73F                July Low: 10.6C / 51F

October High: 15C / 59F              Oct Low: 2.2C / 36F

Zoige: 

January High: 0.6C / 33F            Jan Low: -15.6C / 4F

April High: 8.9C / 48F                 April Low: -2.2C / 28F

July High: 17.2C / 63F                July Low: 7.2C / 45F

October High: 8.3C / 47F            Oct Low: -1.7C / 29F

Daocheng/Yading Nature Reserve:

January High: 6.7C / 44F             Jan Low: -11.1C / 12F

April High: 11.7C / 53F                April Low: 0C / 32F

July High: 18.3C / 65F                July Low: 9C / 48F

October High: 13.3C / 56F           Oct Low: 0.6C / 33F

Ma'erkang:

January High: 9C / 48F               Jan Low: -6.7C / 20F

April High: 18.3C / 65F               April Low: 3.3C / 38F

July High: 24.4C / 76F                July Low: 11.7C / 53F

October High: 16.7C / 62F          Oct Low: 4.4C / 40F

GANSU PROVINCE

Xiahe (Labrang Monastery):

January High: 0C / 32F               Jan Low: -15.6C / 4F

April High: 10.6C / 51F                April Low: -1.7C / 29F

July High: 19C / 66F                  July Low: 9C / 48F

October High: 10C / 50F             Oct Low: 0C / 32F

YUNNAN PROVINCE

Dechen:

January High: 5C / 41F                Jan Low: -5.6C / 22F

April High: 10.6C / 51F                April Low: 1.7C / 35F

July High: 19C / 66F                   July Low: 11.1C / 52F

October High: 12.8C / 55F           Oct Low: 3.3C / 38F

24. When is the rainy season?

The rainy season in Tibet begins in early June and last until early to mid-September. The rainy season in Tibet is not nearly as wet as south and southeast Asia, but it does rain and there are quite a bit of clouds. If you are coming to Tibet to get good views of the Himalaya's or other big peaks, I recommend waiting until after the rainy season to go. You can trek during this time, but be sure to bring clothes suitable for wet weather.

25. I plan to travel from mainland China to the TAR and then back to mainland China. Do I need a double entry Chinese visa?

No, all you need is a single entry visa. The TAR is firmly a part of China. There is no Immigration or Customs crossing when going from mainland China to the TAR.

26. I am a foreigner but my spouse is Chinese and holds a Chinese ID card? Do I still need travel permits and to be on an organized tour to go to the TAR?

Yes, you still have to follow all of the same regulations as other travelers. Though your wife does not require to be on an organized tour, you still have to be.

27. I am a foreigner but my spouse is a Tibetan who lives in the TAR. Do I still need to be on an organized tour to go the TAR?

The answer varies from time to time, but normally you do not need to be on an organized tour. Your spouse should be able to contact the Public Security Bureau (PSB) in his/her hometown and get you a special permit that allows you to go to your spouse's hometown without travel permits. This normally takes several weeks or even months to arrange, but should be possible.

28. Can I get a visa extension in Lhasa or anywhere else in the TAR?

Before March 2008, you could often times get a visa extension in Lhasa, but since then it is extremely rare. Do not count on being able to get a visa extension in Lhasa or anywhere else in the TAR. 

29. Is there anyplace on the Tibetan Plateau where I can get a visa extension?

Yes, you can get up to a 30 day visa extension in Kangding (Dartsendo), Yushu (Jyekundo), Shangri La (Gyelthang), Ma'erkang (Barkham), Xining, Golmud, Songpan and Hezuo (Tsoe). You can sometimes get a visa extension in Dawu (Machen) in Golog prefecture as well. 

30. I have a business (F) visa. Can I get travel permits for the TAR?

Yes, you can, but you will have to have a letter from your inviting company that states your full name, nationality, passport number and position at the company. The letter should be written in Chinese on official letterhead and needs to be dated and stamped with your company's official seal. This letter then needs to be scanned and emailed to the travel agency you are using and they will turn it in to the Tibet Tourism Bureau.

31. I have a resident visa (either student visa or work permit) for China. Can I get travel permits for the TAR?

Yes, you can, but you will have to have a letter from your university or workplace that states your full name, nationality, passport number and position at the company. The letter should be written in Chinese on official letterhead and needs to be dated and stamped with your school's/company's official seal. This letter then needs to be scanned and emailed to the travel agency you are using and they will turn it in to the Tibet Tourism Bureau.

32. I have a Diplomatic Passport. Can I get travel permits for the TAR?

Usually you cannot get permits for the TAR. 

33. I have a journalist visa. Can I get travel permits for the TAR?

Usually you cannot get permits for the TAR.

34. Is Tibet a safe place to travel?

Having lived in various regions of Tibet for the past 10 years, I can say that Tibet is very safe, even for solo and female travelers. 

35. I have heard others say to NOT list Tibet on my Chinese visa application. What do you think I should do?

I do not recommend listing Tibet on your visa application. There is a good chance that your Chinese visa application will be denied. I recommend just listing a couple of major cities that you will be going to such as Beijing or Chengdu. Once your Chinese visa is issued, you are free to travel to places not listed on your visa application, including Tibet.

36. Is there an official website regarding travel to the TAR that has updated information on closures, travel permits, weather and other important information?

No, the Chinese government does not provide an official website with travel information on the TAR or other regions of Tibet. Getting accurate, up-to-date travel information on Tibet can be difficult. That is one of the main reasons that I have this website.

37. Does my guide have to be with me all day, every day?

Your guide does have to be with you each day while you are in the TAR, but the guide does not necessarily have to be with you all day long. In Lhasa, some of the more famous temples and monasteries will require your guide to be with you in order to enter. However, much of the city you can explore on your own without your guide. I usually tell people to have their guide meet them sometime after breakfast (between 9:30 and 10am). Have your guide take you to a couple of main attractions in Lhasa and then around lunch time, or slightly after, tell your guide you are going to take a short rest at your hotel. Tell your guide that if you need anything that you will call him/her. This way you can explore the city on your own without your guide. Sometimes, when there is a serious threat of unstability in Lhasa, the government will require the guide to be with you at all times, but this is not common.

 38. I have heard reports of guidebooks on Tibet being taken by officials. Is this true?

In some cases this is true. If you are going from mainland China to the Tibet Autonomous Region, it is highly unlikely that your guidebook on Tibet will be confiscated. Contrary to popular belief, there is no "border" between mainland China and the TAR since they are part of the same country. If you take the train or bus to Lhasa from Xining, you will never know when you cross into the TAR unless someone tells you or you have a very detailed map (entering the TAR from western Sichuan, southern Qinghai or northwest Yunnan is a different story as there are checkpoints at these places, but still no Immigration to cross). There is no Immigration Station of any kind that would check your bags.

The problem that some travelers have had, including myself, is with the Nepal-Tibet border crossing.The Nepal side is fine. It is when you enter or exit Chinese customs where problems could arise. In 2009 I had my Lonely Planet Tibet guidebook taken from me as I was LEAVING China! I might see a reason for them to take the guidebook if I were entering China, but I saw no reason why they should confiscate it as I am preparing to enter into Nepal. I argued my case, but they still took it. The customs official then showed me a large stack of guidebooks (mosly LP guides, but not entirely) taken over the years.

One thing you could do is to bury your Tibet guidebook deep in your bag and wrap dirty clothes around it (particularly underwear...who wants to pick up dirty underwear!). Another option is to purchase the PDF of the LP Tibet guidebook and just keep it on your computers hard drive. It is extremely unlikely that customs will ask to go through your computer.

39. Is English spoken widely across Tibet?

No, besides the popular hotels and restaurants in Lhasa, English is rarely understood in Tibet. Most of Tibet is very remote and undeveloped and few people are able to speak English. Chinese is widely spoken by Tibetans who live in Lhasa, Shigatse, Dartsendo, Shangri La and a few other larger towns in Tibet, but in rural regions of Tibet many Tibetans, especially those over 35 years old, still cannot (or will not) speak Chinese. In these remote regions, Tibetan remains the only language that is understood. Don't let this stop you from traveling the region though. Tibetans are extremely hospitable, friendly and helpful and will do their best to communicate with you despite the language barrier. Chinese will be spoken at all county level bus stations.

40. Is it true that the Chinese Communist Government gets the majority of the cost of tours to the TAR?

Absolutely not! The actual cost of the permits are only 50 RMB/person. Besides entrance fees to places like Yamdrok Lake, Everest Base Camp and a few other nature reserves, the small price of the permits is really the only money that the government directly makes from your tour. Now if you use a Chinese Communist Government owned travel agency, such as China International Travel Services (CITS) then your tourism money will go to the government. But, with all of the smaller Tibetan owned travel agnecies in Lhasa and Xining, there is absolutely no need to use agencies such as CITS. Support the Tibetan people by using as many Tibetan owned businesses as possible.

41. Why are the costs of tours to the TAR so expensive?

Travel to the TAR is not considered "cheap" because all foreigners must have travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver. The cost of vehicles in China, especially imported vehicles such as the Toyota Land Cruisers that are usually used in Tibet, is much higher than in North America and Europe. Even used Land Cruisers sell for much higher (as much as double) than they do elsewhere. So the higher vehicle costs add to the tour price. Another factor is fuel prices. Fuel prices on the Tibetan Plateau are probably a little less than most of Europe, but is still considerably higher than in North America. The fuel and vehicle charges make up more than 80% of the total tour price. Guides are usually paid between 150 RMB and 250 RMB per day, which also adds up on a 10 or 14 day tour. Though the roads in the TAR are improving, the distances are still far between places, especially if you are traveling to Mt. Kailash in far western Tibet. Tour prices are normally based on the distance traveled so if you are doing a lot of overland driving to places like Everest, the Nepal border or Mt. Kailash, the price is going to be higher than if you are just staying in the Lhasa-Nam Tso-Shigatse area.

Vehicle and guide prices can be split by up to 4 people making the cost of traveling in the TAR more affordable. There are several travel agencies in Lhasa, Chengdu and Xining that can find a small group for travelers to join to lessen the cost per person. For more information on which travel agencies to contact that can help find a group for you to join, email me at [email protected].

42. Which agency do you recommend using for my upcoming Tibet tour?

Tibet is a huge region covering over 25% of the land mass of China. Most agencies specialize in only certain areas of Tibet, such as the TAR, Amdo or Kham. Few specialize in all 3 regions. I only recommend using Tibetan owned businesses as I believe it is important for foreign travelers to support the Tibetan people by using as many Tibetan owned businesses as possible during their time in Tibet. For a recommendation on which agency to use, email me your proposed itinerary and how long you plan to travel in Tibet and I will get back to you as soon as possible. My email address is: [email protected].

43. Do I have the freedom to design my own itinerary or do I have to take a pre-arranged "package tour"?

For the most part, you have complete freedom to design your own itinerary for Tibet. The main reason why travel agencies offer "package tours" is because most travelers are not very familiar with Tibet and are not sure which places to go to. Offering package tours makes it easier for travelers to just choose a pre-arranged tour without the hassle of doing any real research of where they want to go. But, if you are like me, you enjoy researching the region and prefer to build your own itinerary going only to the places you want to go to. Nearly every travel agency that arranges tours to Tibet will allow you to build your own itinerary. Do keep in mind that not all regions of the TAR, Amdo and Kham are always open.

44. Is it difficult to arrange/get train tickets to Lhasa?

During the high season (June through early October), it can be extremely difficult to get train tickets to Lhasa. The reason is that Lhasa has now become a major tourist destination among Chinese travelers. During the high season, as many as 30,000 tourists a day pour into Lhasa. In 2010, the TAR received 6.82 million tourists and in 2011 that number is expected to exceed 7 million tourists. Lhasa no longer is the remote "Forbidden City" it once was. Most travelers to the TAR prefer to take the train to Lhasa making train tickets extremely difficult to get, especially if you are trying to get them on your own. It is best to have the agency that you use for your Tibet tour also arrange your train tickets to Lhasa for you as well. Most agencies have some connections with either the train station or a larger government owned travel agency so that they can get train tickets more easily (though it still can be difficult). 

Many times a travel agency cannot guarantee you train tickets for the specific day you want to travel because getting train tickets are so difficult during the high season. If your schedule allows you, it is a little easier to fly to Lhasa and then take the train leaving Lhasa. Train tickets departing Lhasa are still difficult to get, but not as difficult as going to Lhasa.

45. I am having big problems getting train tickets from Xi'an to Lhasa. Why is that?

There are actually no trains to Lhasa that originate in Xi'an. The trains from Xi'an to Lhasa actually originate in the mega cities of Shanghai, Chongqing and Guangzhou. They just pass through Xi'an. The railway station does keep a select number of tickets to Lhasa for travelers in Xi'an, but the number of tickets is relatively small. By the time the train to Lhasa reaches Xi'an or any other smaller Chinese city, the train has passed through hundreds of millions of people and there are few tickets remaining. It is best to take the train to Lhasa from a city in which the train originates. Trains to Lhasa originate in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Chongqing, Lanzhou and Xining. 

46. Which city do you recommend taking the train from?

I recommend taking the train from Xining for 2 main reasons. Xining, capital of Qinghai province and the largest city on the Tibetan Plateau, is the actual starting point of the Tibetan Railway. It lies at an elevation of 2275m and is a good place to spend a couple of nights at in order to acclimatize to the higher elevation of Lhasa. Spending a couple of nights in Xining will reduce (but NOT eliminate) the chances of getting serious altitude sickness. Another reason why I recommend taking the train to Lhasa from Xining is that it is generally easier to get train tickets in Xining. Unlike the other cities that have trains originating to Lhasa, Xining is a small city by Chinese standards. The smaller population means that fewer people are trying to get tickets on the coveted Lhasa Train. It can still be difficult to get train tickets to Lhasa from Xining during the peak high season, but not as difficult as Chengdu, Beijing, Shanghai or any other larger city.

47. Do you recommend travelers insurance when traveling in Tibet?

Absolutely! Having a travelers insurance policy that protects you against cancelled tours, cancelled/delayed flights and any unplanned medical emergency is highly recommended. This year the TAR was closed for nearly 2 months and I received several emails from travelers who had to cancel their Tibet tour because of the closure. A reputable travel agency should refund you most of the tour cost, but it is still good to have a policy that covers you as well. Also, hospitals in Tibet are generally well below Western standards. Having a medical policy that would transport you to a high quality hospital in Hong Kong, Singpore or Thailand is important.

48. Can I arrive in Dram/Zhangmu at the Nepal/Tibet border and arrange a tour of Tibet there?

No, in order to go from Nepal into Tibet, you must organize your tour either from one of the many travel agencies in Kathmandu or one from Lhasa. The agency must arrange a Group Chinese visa for you and your guide, vehicle and driver will meet you at the border. It is not possible to arrive at the border and arrange a tour of Tibet there.

49. Which is better to travel: Mainland China-Tibet-Nepal or to go Nepal-Tibet-Mainland China?

I get this question a lot. I think it is better to go from Mainland China to Tibet and then to Nepal and here is why.....When entering Tibet from Nepal, you have to have a Group Chinese visa. This visa is very limiting because it is normally only good for 21 to 28 days and cannot be extended like a normal Chinese Tourist visa can. The only way to extend your time in China is to leave, usually to Hong Kong, and apply for a new Chinese Tourist visa. After your tour of Tibet is completed, you usually do not have much time remaining to explore the rest of China because of the limited amount of time remaining on your visa. Also, if you form a group to travel with in order to reduce the cost of travel per person (see #41), all of you on the Group Chinese visa must enter and exit China together, at the same place at the same time. In the past (prior to 2008) you used to be able to "split" the Group Visa, but this is not possible any longer.

The Group Chinese visa is not in your passport. It is a single piece of paper that has all of the names, nationalities, passport numbers and ages of everyone in your group. Since it is just one piece of paper, you all have to travel to the exact same places together. It should be possible for some agencies in Kathmandu to issue the Group Chinese visa with just one person's name on it, however the travel regulations when entering Tibet from Nepal can frequently change without any notice.

If you enter Tibet from Mainland China, you avoid all of the strict regulations regarding the Chinese Group visa as you can enter with just a normal Chinese Tourist visa that can be renewed at least once for 30 days (and usually twice). 

50. How do you know all of the regulations regarding travel in Tibet?

That is a great question! I have lived and worked full-time in various regions of Tibet for nearly 10 years. I own my own 4 wheel-drive vehicle and have traveled over 300,000kms overland across Tibet. There are few areas that I have not been to. In the past I owned my own travel agency, which employed all Tibetans, and arranged nearly 500 custom tours of Tibet. Because of this, I know all travel regulations for the TAR and other areas of Tibet in detail. I keep up-to-date on all new regulations regarding travel on the Tibetan Plateau. All of the information I provide on this site comes from either my own personal experience or from first hand reports from friends working at the Tibet Tourism Bureau or other reputable travel agencies across Tibet. 

This post has taken me several days to write. This is not an exhaustive FAQ post...I am sure there are other questions that people ask me frequently that I have not included. Over the next couple of months I will try and add a few more commonly asked questions to this post.

After reading this, if you still have a travel question regarding Tibet, please don't hesitate to contact me.I have a Facebook page dedicated to travel related questions on Tibet. Check it out here:

The Land of Snows: Travel Advice on Tibet

I know that traveling to Tibet can seem difficult and confusing. That is why I created this site 5 years ago...in order to make traveling to Tibet easier! You can contact me at [email protected].

 

 

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